Lei hulu manu, the feather lei of Hawai`i, are some of the most dramatic lei, and steeped with the history and culture of the royalty of the islands. Birds, endowed with the power of flight, can reach the heavens, and flying high, can see far beyond the human view. And so their feathers, filled with the mana, spiritual strength, of the birds’ communion with heaven, were crafted into many items of royal regalia worn, and used by chiefs. Feathered garments and adornments are found throughout the world. James W. Reid’s book, Magic Feathers, documents the exquisite feathered textiles of Peru. Growing evidence indicates repeated contacts between civilizations throughout and ringing the Pacific Basin. In Hawai`i, featherwork developed into an art form which added spiritual strength and beauty to items ranging from personal adornment to religious and war regalia to sacred structures.
Garland of Royalty
The noblewomen of Ancient Hawai`i were as fashion conscious as noblewomen anywhere, and took great pains with their grooming. Tidy appearance and cleanliness were virtues, nails were kept trimmed, and hair was coiffed. Bleaching of the forehead and temple hair was practiced, and adornment of the hair included exquisite feather lei.
Here, a portrait of Queen Ka`ahumanu, a favored wife of Pai`ea Kamehameha, with fashionably bleached hair and a lei po`o hulu manu – feather head lei. The original portrait was done from life by Louis Choris in 1816. This color plate appears to be based on that portrait.
Lei Wili Poepoe
In the 19th century lei hulu manu of `o`o, `i`iwi, and `o`u feathers in the wili poepoe style, arranged in pauku, or bands. The `o`o and the `o`u birds are now extinct due to habitat loss, invasive species such as rats, and introduced diseases, such as avian malaria.
These types of lei were worn by royal women, and passed down from generation to generation. They continue to be cherished today, not only for their beauty, but for their mo`olelo, their stories. Most `ohana (families) which have such heirloom lei are very aware of their provenance, and themodern wearers can recite who crafted the lei, and who in the `ohana had the privilage of wearing it down through the years.
Lei Humupapa
These lei hulu manu humupapa are from the author’s collection. Crafted in the 1920s, they are narrow, rounded in cross-section to resemble the kamoe (stitched flat, “sleeping” style), and flat on the under or back side. The stitching is covered with a fabric band. The lei were crafted by the author’s kupuna wahine. They are shorter than lei papale (hat lei) done in the same style, as they are designed to be worn around a hair bun. Instead of being secured with a straight pin, which could poke the scalp, they have snaps sewn to their ends.
Modern lei hulu manu humupapa are often more wide and flat, and the stitching on the underside is left exposed to show the beauty and intricacy of the work.
Princess Ka`iulani
<Princess Ka`iulani, right, wearing a lei hulu manu in the wili poepoe style. Ka`iulani recently was depicted in a film bearing her name. While modest and studious, she was also a lady of fashion. Educated in England, as Crown Princess of Hawai`i, she strove to fit herself to some day assume the throne and reign as a modern monarch, leading her people into a new era.
Thoroughly modern in education and political leanings, she treasured the traditions of her ancestors.
When to Wear Lei Hulu Manu
Lei hulu manu is generally considered a more formal lei. Does the event call for diamonds and pearls? Wear a lei hulu manu! Black tie events, weddings, funerals, and such all would be appropriate times to wear lei hulu manu. Other times to wear them are graduations, festivals, and at events honoring someone. It is not appropriate to wear them to activities where they may be damaged. The exception is the lei papale (hat lei). A lei hulu papa – flat feather lei – is the perfect adornment for a Hawaiian papale lauhala – pandanus leaf hat. Both requiring expert craftsmanship, the enhance each other, and the wearer. The papale protects the lei, and so it commonly worn at occasions from rodeos to lunch with friends. The dress hat of a paniolo, a Hawaiian cowboy, also often will be adorned with a lei hulu papa.
At right, Manu Josiah wears a lei hulu papa while performing at the Palace Theater in Hilo. The lei, made by his mother, Dolly Josiah, features peacock, golden pheasant, and white goose feathers arranged in pauku
Today’s Master Lei Makers
With the hustle and bustle of modern times, the patience and leisure required to master intricate arts such as lei hulu manu is often difficult to come by. Fortunately, some of those who learned the art are willing to share their knowledge, and new generations are investing their time and aloha in Hawaiian featherwork. Respected kupuna feather lei makers today include Doreen Henderson, of Puna; Paulette Kahalepuna, daughter of the late lei hulu master Aunty Mary Lou Kekuewa of O`ahu; Tsugi Kimura Kaiama, of Waimea; and Diane Masumura, of Kauai.